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chriz99

46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet

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Thanks for sharing the fps scores Chris. They are incredibly high. I just got back from holiday but will post my FPS scores for all the tables based on you template. I also have some faster RAM coming so will post scores after installing that, and then at start of June I have someone bringing me a Asus GTX 480 1.5GB from the UK which I ordered quite cheap so will publish scores again for that.

We almost need a dedicated FPS thread, or a repository to collate all this FPS data :)

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what drivers did you try, i'm running the latest. all seems to work with DMD position etc, not tried it with the old 182.5's yet.

greg, installed the newest nvidia 270.61 driver. everything worked good, also the dmd position... the only thing was the minimal ball judder/glitch sometimes. odd... maybe its just my 32bit/xp system or another problem somewhere...

Thanks for sharing the fps scores Chris. They are incredibly high. I just got back from holiday but will post my FPS scores for all the tables based on you template. I also have some faster RAM coming so will post scores after installing that, and then at start of June I have someone bringing me a Asus GTX 480 1.5GB from the UK which I ordered quite cheap so will publish scores again for that.

We almost need a dedicated FPS thread, or a repository to collate all this FPS data :)

yeah, let's start an fps (optimization) thread. can you open it? will post my fps data right then :tee:

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2x450 1gb - WIN7 64bit, latest nvidia driver, ball in trough, NO UVP

IJ 770, SS 440, TZ 436, TOM 382

These numbers are the first 3 digits from the FPS counter.

Seem low?? but the ball is silky smooth on all tables, with multi ball and with all LEDwiz toys, so im not sure what figure we should be aiming for? but other than UVP, i couldnt want for better perfrmance than how my set ups playing right now, very happy :)

Edited by hicks100

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it's always good to compare fps-scores and pc/vp specs to identify bottlenecks, to discover something new, to find different/hidden settings and so on. like settingsons ddraw=0 find... works like a champ and adds 50-100fps instantly.

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yeah, let's start an fps (optimization) thread. can you open it? will post my fps data right then :tee:

Yes sure will - I just opened a new thread in the Support forum with my stats, so hopefully it can be stickied along with the Performance Tips thread. If anyone else has posted their FPS already if you can post them there as well it would be great - thanks.

FPS Scores with Hardware/Software Configurations - Please Post Yours Here

Cheers

Vic

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Everyone... After a long break (life getting in the way), I'm back... have some catching up to do.

What version is the LEDWiz at now?

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Are you kidding me? If he needs a kindey all he has to do is ask for help... actually sorry H4CK3R, mine are stuffed from years of drinking. :cheers:

Should not have any dramas selling that beast.

Hope he was happy with the selling price $6300.

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Guest gstav
Everyone... After a long break (life getting in the way), I'm back... have some catching up to do.

What version is the LEDWiz at now?

ledcontrol v0.2.4.7.vbs :five:

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Hi Chris,

Your cabinet is absolutely brilliant and I've been inspired to give it a go myself. I have just received delivery of my Sharp Aquos 46" and am trying to work out the best position for the 4 flipper buttons, and the front cabinet buttons/plunger etc. It looks like you've had to drop them slightly due to the depth of the screen. Would it be possible to get the measurements/positioning for these buttons. Also when you cut out the cabinet sides and installed the playfield monitor, was there any space left either side at all or did it pretty much fit exactly to the width of the cab?

PS - Can't wait to see what you do with the Big Bang Pin ;-)

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thanks for your kind words :beer:

the sharp aquos playfield screen fits -exactly- to the width of the cab, there is no more space left. I would suggest that you find your own perfect/desired position for your flipperbuttons. simply insert your playfield monitor and attach the siderails, so you can figure the ideal position for your buttons... after that you can drill the button holes for the perfect/personal fit.

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yeah you dont wanna end up having to do this..

imag0026e.jpg

:banghead:

Try and get it right first time :) Even slightly out will bug you after a long game.

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PS - Can't wait to see what you do with the Big Bang Pin ;-)

err.. lol BBB is me not Chris :)

my first was also a 46 sitting on the edge as it were. lots of work, but you will enjoy it.

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err.. lol BBB is me not Chris :)

my first was also a 46 sitting on the edge as it were. lots of work, but you will enjoy it.

Whoops sorry. I saw the plug at the top of Chris' thread so thought it was one he was making.

yeah you dont wanna end up having to do this..

:banghead:

Try and get it right first time :) Even slightly out will bug you after a long game.

HEHE - That's exactly the sort of thing I'm worried about doing ;-) Was that your cab?

thanks for your kind words :beer:

the sharp aquos playfield screen fits -exactly- to the width of the cab, there is no more space left. I would suggest that you find your own perfect/desired position for your flipperbuttons. simply insert your playfield monitor and attach the siderails, so you can figure the ideal position for your buttons... after that you can drill the button holes for the perfect/personal fit.

Thanks Chris - that makes sense. I'm actually getting someone to build a standard size widebody - flatpack style so I should probably ask him not to put the flipper button holes in and do them later...

I haven't purchased the side rails yet - I noticed you're using the older Bally style rails - I'm guessing the "standard" side rails aren't quite wide enough to cover the sides of the monitor - is that right or was that more an aesthetic choice?

Thanks again..

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yes, the standard side rails are not wide enough, so you need the old bally style rails.

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Yeah its sorted now but actually wasnt that bad a thing in the end.

Because i was able to slide the button up and down in the end, it allowed me to fine tune the verticle position to EXACTLY where it felt comfortable, then i just filled and re painted.

More work than it should of been though, like most of the stuff on me cab really :) talk about steep learning curb :)

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Hi Chriz look at my new score on STTNG 13,947,759,280 try to do it with only 3 balls and 2 extra balls during the game :D :D

QGKq3k2XeDU

Regards!

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congrats! good game :D

btw... love the flasher reflections on the playfield glass ;)

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Guest gstav

according to the rumors, this is what Chris is going to build: :D

Castle_Play_Sets-Wooden_Castle_Play_Houses-Castle_Furniture_Kits-image.jpg

Edited by gstav

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Wow, Chris - a new cab already!

I'm still building my first one, heavily based on your first one.

I found a Sharp 46" on clearance at the local Walmart, of all places. They had a Philips 46", too, so I grabbed that, as well. My plan is to use the Sharp for the playfield, and the Philips for the backbox (rotated 90 degrees, with part of it stuffed into the main cab body).

I have it prototyped on the floor here. I used the video card's utility to rotate the backbox's desktop 90 degrees (so it's upside right when I physically turn the TV on it's side), then did some math to work out how much of the screen will be visible in the backbox and told HyperPin to shrink the backbox image to fit that measurement.

I really like the 2-display setup with UVP. There are a few tables I can't use UVP with (some of the older LED-driven backboxes cause serious slowdown in VP, but all of the newer DMD tables work properly, and some of the LED tables work ok, too).

Tables like Cirqus Voltaire, with it's DMD down in the playfield and tables like Kiss and Space Invaders with their LEDs spread across the backbox got me thinking that the 2-display setup was going to get me as close as possible to the real thing. That, and some tables pretty much need UVP to show game status through illuminated parts of the translite (Addams Family, for example).

The dual 46" display setup will require me to notch the sides of my main cab body for both displays, but I will cover that with a thin layer of stiff material and the graphics after. In the end, no one will know what I did - my secret will be safe!

Here are a few photos (not good ones, mind you - I used my cell phone). These are from before I decased the screens:

screens.jpg

And some of the buttons I'm using. I got these from GroovyGameGear.com. For the labels, I went to a stationary store and bought some overhead projector sheets for a laser printer, sized up my text in Word, printed it on the clear sheets, cut out the results, took the buttons apart, then stuffed the pieces inside and put the buttons back together. It worked perfectly.

buttons.jpg

litbuttons.jpg

Fun, fun!

Edited by Darkfall

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nice buttons! looking good!

can't wait to see some pics of your dual 46" :beer:

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