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chriz99

46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet

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ahhh waste of a 46" nooooooo use it for another machine and use a smaller screen for the backglass !!!

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Thanks, Chris.

I have a slight delay after playing with my KeyWiz for a bit last night. The KeyWiz isn't going to do the job for me, since my setup is based on Windows 7 X64 and the KeyWiz's software doesn't support it. I did plug the KeyWiz into an XP box and got it programmed, but it doesn't keep it's settings if you power it down (thus it needs the software to work to reprogram it on startup), so I ordered an I-PAC2.

I should have ordered the KeyWiz with the programming I wanted in ROM, but no big deal - I'll use the KeyWiz on my MAME cocktail table, which is currently using one of the 60-in-1 boards. Since the KeyWiz defaults to MAME keys, that should work fine.

The I-PAC should be here in a few days, and then I'll be able to deal with that. I'll play with the LEDWiz in the meantime and finish my cut list for the cabinet so I can start building on the next available free day.

mameman: I considered using a smaller display for the backbox, but everything I found was short and wide (typical widescreen), and I wanted my backbox to be more square like a typical machine - plus I wanted the lower part to change to speakers/DMD or extra translite (for some tables), or whatever - so the rotated 46" should work out just about perfectly. It's as close as I can get to a 4:3 display, which is what I really wanted. I got the display cheap anyway - they were blowing out old stock to make room for new models, so I got them for a song. The Sharp is normally $998, and I got it for $600. At that price, the second 46" is almost free *grin*.

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Wow, Chris - a new cab already!

I found a Sharp 46" on clearance at the local Walmart, of all places. They had a Philips 46", too, so I grabbed that, as well. My plan is to use the Sharp for the playfield, and the Philips for the backbox (rotated 90 degrees, with part of it stuffed into the main cab body).

I have it prototyped on the floor here. I used the video card's utility to rotate the backbox's desktop 90 degrees (so it's upside right when I physically turn the TV on it's side), then did some math to work out how much of the screen will be visible in the backbox and told HyperPin to shrink the backbox image to fit that measurement.

I really like the 2-display setup with UVP. There are a few tables I can't use UVP with (some of the older LED-driven backboxes cause serious slowdown in VP, but all of the newer DMD tables work properly, and some of the LED tables work ok, too).

Tables like Cirqus Voltaire, with it's DMD down in the playfield and tables like Kiss and Space Invaders with their LEDs spread across the backbox got me thinking that the 2-display setup was going to get me as close as possible to the real thing. That, and some tables pretty much need UVP to show game status through illuminated parts of the translite (Addams Family, for example).

The dual 46" display setup will require me to notch the sides of my main cab body for both displays, but I will cover that with a thin layer of stiff material and the graphics after. In the end, no one will know what I did - my secret will be safe!

Darkfall .. my opinion: way to go .. I offered this idea long time ago because of losing the speakerpanel when using a 3-screen setup.

Using only 2 'full sized' screens this way you will be able to keep the speakerpanel and will not be losing out on the great graphs on most of them!

Only downfall - I have been told - is that the Backglass monitor will burn in (more rapidly) while the image is 'non-moving' .. besides the UVP activity ;)

When you build a custom sized Cabinet you are able to 'hide' the part of the 2nd monitor you won't use.

I'm curious how all will work out!

Thanks for sharing! :)

Cheers,

FD.

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I should have ordered the KeyWiz with the programming I wanted in ROM, but no big deal - I'll use the KeyWiz on my MAME cocktail table, which is currently using one of the 60-in-1 boards. Since the KeyWiz defaults to MAME keys, that should work fine.

I didn't think you could order a Keywiz with the programming you wanted on the ROM which is why RandyT provides software for it so you can program it yourself. The only downside to it unlike the IPAC is you need to load the profile every time you start windows. That isn't a problem but I found 9/10 times it would give an error with a big "X" on the screen when trying to load the profile leaving you to kill the process via task manager. That sort of sucks when you want to automate your cab and not have to rely on having a keyboard nearby. I never got resolution for this and switch to an IPAC and haven't looked back.

Only downfall - I have been told - is that the Backglass monitor will burn in (more rapidly) while the image is 'non-moving' .. besides the UVP activity ;)

Unless you are running your VP cab 24/7 I don't think this would be a problem and besides I didn't think burn ins still happened :P

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Hi, FD,

Burn in isn't really an issue with LCD, especially in TV-class equipment, so I'm not worried about that. With plasma, it's a major issue - so, the take away is to not use plasma for your video game projects, or you will end up with burn in, even on the playfield, where much of the display doesn't move much.

The only real issue I can see is that there will be no point putting a back door on the cab to get at the PC, since the rotated backglass display will be in the way anyway. I'm thinking I may do some kind of drop out bottom on a mechanism, or something. That might even be preferable, since it'll give me full access to everything inside without having to stuff my body through holes in the cab to get at things *grin*. I'm sort of thinking of making the bottom open like a door, with hinges down one side of the cab, and a couple of slide latches on the other side. Everything inside will be screwed to the floor of the cab, and when I pull the latches and let the bottom drop down on the hinges - that'll present everything to me on an angle, so it'd be easy to see and reach. Heck, I could even put a door closing mechanism on it so it can't just fly open uncontrolled after popping the latches. Hmmmm...I may be on to something here!

Once I get the cab built, I'll take photos. I had hoped I could start on it this weekend, but I have another project I have to work on for Monday, and next weekend I'm out of town. It looks like it'll be the weekend after that when I can do some wood work.

mwong168: The GroovyGameGear site says that custom ROM programming is available upon request, and it only lists Windows 98/XP for the software. All the information was there - I just made assumptions and clicked while I was buying buttons and the LEDWiz. It's my own fault. But, like I say, I can use it on my MAME project later, so no big deal.

Edited by Darkfall

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I attached my playfield display on one end via a hinge. I can now prop it up much in the same way that you would a car hood or a real pinball.

I can get to the guts of the cab without removing the playfield.

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Hi, shilmover,

That could work, too. I considered something like that, but then visualized myself hanging over the side of the cab, reaching in to do things - it sounded uncomfortable. If I drop out the bottom on a hinge, I can sit on the floor and sort things out.

With luck, I won't need to get in there often anyway, so it may almost be a moot point in the long run.

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Trust me, you'll be inside your cab more often then your women.... Both will leave you confused and bewildered.

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Hi, H4CK3R,

You're probably right - but my hope is to not have to be inside it too often once it's complete. The idea is to put it in my little "pub" downstairs, and just enjoy it with friends.

I got the I-PAC2 the other day, and finally got it programmed today. I also hooked up what I could of the LEDWiz and played with the LEDWiz program they offer. My RGB flipper buttons, and flashing Start and Launch Ball buttons are doing their thing now (though not via HyperPin or VMMAME yet - this is just testing my wiring).

I put all my buttons into a little box for testing, so I was actually playing pinball with it tonight. I so need the mercury switches for nudge - I didn't realize how often I was nudging before, but you sure notice it when there's no button to press and you have to do without!

Now I'm waiting for my RGB CREEs and heatsinks to arrive from led-tech.com, and my contactors to get here.

I'm also waiting for the lockdown bar to come into stock, so I can start building the cabinet. I need to make sure I size it for the lockdown bar properly, or I'll be unhappy when it arrives and doesn't fit. mad-amusements.com says the lockdown bar should be in stock in early June, and their price of $99.00 sounds good.

Yay progress!

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This two-screen setup seems IDEAL for one of my favorites: Banzai Run. Of course, one of my favorite games requires the most dramatic engineering to make into a hyperpin. :/

Wow, Chris - a new cab already!

...

Tables like Cirqus Voltaire, with it's DMD down in the playfield and tables like Kiss and Space Invaders with their LEDs spread across the backbox got me thinking that the 2-display setup was going to get me as close as possible to the real thing. That, and some tables pretty much need UVP to show game status through illuminated parts of the translite (Addams Family, for example).

...

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Hi, wormzer,

Banzai Run is a pretty unique machine, with it's playable backbox. Visual Pinball couldn't do it, I don't think. Future Pinball might be able to, though.

So far, I think the two display setup is the right way to go - it gets us as close to a square display for the backbox as possible with current widescreen display - though it does add cost to have dual 46" displays.

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Hi, FD,

Burn in isn't really an issue with LCD, especially in TV-class equipment, so I'm not worried about that. With plasma, it's a major issue - so, the take away is to not use plasma for your video game projects, or you will end up with burn in, even on the playfield, where much of the display doesn't move much.

ya, LCDs don't get "burn in"

They get ghosting, which is especially the same thing - except it'll SLOWLY fade away.

Anyone that tells you that LCDs "don't burn in" just hasn't seen it yet. I work in a large IT / Casino environment, and the screens (big and small) that have static images for too long will get a ghost effect after awhile - that goes away after a month or so of "moving" images.

Don't know what causes it, but its not brand specific.

It happens most of the time when our kiosks sit in a "windows lock screen" for too long (like on weekends when nobody is here).

On a PinCAB where you play for and hour or two, and either turn it off or change tables - I don't see it being an issue at all.

But just wanted to say that "LCDs don't burn in" is false. They do, its just different (and reversible) than the old CRTs.

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Yeah. thats a problem.

As it´s possible to daisychain them I got the tip from mr. Chriz to use the WAGO nuts.

I bought the 5 hole version. Awesome!

Have used around 8 of them allready! :tee:

just bought ten on your advice...:beer:

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hi master chris just one question, instead of putting all 5 creewhite in 1 port of the LEDWIZ, can you assign 5 ports to the LEDWIZ for the creewhite for strobes? I read in the manual that strobes are S12, can i just assign them all s12 ? am i getting it right? thanks in advance.

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yes that is possible, you can assign all 5 creewhite separately... for example to ledwiz port 1-5

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Hello there master chris just want to know how do you connect your strobe to your ledwiz? the strobe is 230V ? do you use a relay? what kind of relay do you use? Do u have a diagram for your connection? I really like your strobes. Thanks in advance.

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yes, I have a diagram. check out the first page of this thread -> there is a faq with direct links to all necessary.

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my set-up

hellow there saw your wiring diagram for your strobes, just want to know what are the three wires? Im sure two of those are power, what is the third wire you connected to the relay. thanks in advance.

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Hey Chriz,

Sorry to ask because I think it is somewhere in the thread and I cannot find it.

What is your "build stack" between the side rails and the top glass?

My guess is something like:

1. Routed slot

2. foam strips in slot

3. tv bezel

4. foam strip across entire side

5. playfield glass

6. foam strip (?)

7. Side rail

Do you have any pics of this?

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hellow there saw your wiring diagram for your strobes, just want to know what are the three wires? Im sure two of those are power, what is the third wire you connected to the relay. thanks in advance.

Have a look at the electrical guide windsor. The link is in my signature below.

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Hey Chriz,

Sorry to ask because I think it is somewhere in the thread and I cannot find it.

What is your "build stack" between the side rails and the top glass?

My guess is something like:

1. Routed slot

2. foam strips in slot

3. tv bezel

4. foam strip across entire side

5. playfield glass

6. foam strip (?)

7. Side rail

Do you have any pics of this?

it's like a sandwich :D

cabinet wood -> foam -> screen -> foam -> glass -> side rail

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it's like a sandwich :D

cabinet wood -> foam -> screen -> foam -> glass -> side rail

Thanks! and I assume the glass just sits on top instead of sliding in on the plastic guide like it used to?

Spektre

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Hi Chriz,

just wanted to say your cab is awesome, i've read this thread a while ago and it made me decide i needed to build my own cab. (which im doing right now)

great work.

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