46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet

[PinballWizard79]

My first post is a request for more video.... So please post more video, I am searching for a widebody WMS cabinet right now & need more motivation :-)

[tagi3d]

My first post is a request for more video.... So please post more video, I am searching for a widebody WMS cabinet right now & need more motivation :-)

What more motivation could you get after seeing those images

[chriz99]

guys,

i am planning to add pinball solenoids (or complete flipper assembly?), knockers or something that generates more force feedback inside the cab (especially for the flippers).

ultrapin uses a knocker i think?

my soundsystem provides already a nice force feedback, but i think a solenoid or similar doesnt cost that much and would be the final touch.

any ideas, wiring diagrams, pics?

[chriz99]

found this at pinball addicts (interview with ultrapin-developer)

Traditional tables provide tactile feedback to the player, are you able to mimic this effect with your product?

We just designed our Flipper Rumble pack as I call it. We add some small solenoids that attach to the Lock Down bar on the cabinet. When you press the flipper buttons you get that small knocking vibration that give the player the feeling that a real flipper is going off in the cabinet. We are now working on the feedback for bumpers and other solenoid activated items on the playfield. We already have a real Knocker that is in the Back Box so that we you earn a free play or extra ball you get that loud knocking sound like the mechanical pinball tables.

[1up]

i originally tried this a while ago http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=1633 with a 12v powerr supply and some 12v solonoids just to see if i could get some reasonable feedback, the results with these were really poor and had hardly any force to them at all. i stopped playing around with them after that but i guess if you went with real pinball solonoids, then that should work well.

[bossgp]

yes I agree as I tried the small 12 vdc solenoids too, but using real pinball solenoids you would have to be careful not to short high voltages 50 vdc back to the ipac controller pcb and another thing is they would always be energised even in game over mode if you pressed the flipper buttons,there is no way for the computer to know when your in or out of a game and I guess you would need to use them with a relay or a set of double flipper switches or contacts

but like you I am still interested to do this somehow.

[chriz99]

thanks 1up and bossgp for the info.

I agree too.

as far as I know pinball solenoids requires 50v (and lots of ampere). I am not sure how to install it properly (and safe).

I can't believe that nobody has done a working force feedback yet?

[Flying Dutchman]

Really nice addition to gameplay I suppose!

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers,

FD.

[Rawd]

I can't believe that nobody has done a working force feedback yet?

I think that HACK3R put one in his cab. I have been thinking of doing it myself as well. Gonna wait and see what some other people come up with

[chriz99]

I think that HACK3R put one in his cab. I have been thinking of doing it myself as well. Gonna wait and see what some other people come up with

I wrote H4CK3R a pm weeks ago but did not get an answer... as it seems I have to figure it out myself.

perhaps someone in this thread could give me a hint on how to get this up and running.

thanks

[tagi3d]

I want to know too but at the very least I'd want be using relay switches to activate the 50v circuit? How u power that I'm not sure but surely an electronics store can point u in the right direction?

[bossgp]

yeah and does anyone know if either software vp or visual pin mame outputs any signals to either the serial or parallel port ??? this would be useful to interface to some control chips or relays for the flipper solenoids.

example game over mode hyperpin wheel on screen , then when you select desired game table and it loads the table using vp when you do a control signal changes in either the serial or parallel port either high or low and this can be used to turn on the flipper solenoids power on and off, this way to keep the 50 volts away from everything else ??? possible I think so since there are versions of v pin mame that can control real pinball machine playfields. what do other people think ??? real pinballs have this to control the power to the flippers anyway.once you start a game it turns on a relay

[billpa]

hey chriz

your cab is getting some props over at this forum:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=380642

[tagi3d]

...as it deserves!

[chriz99]

thanks for the link!

hope this inspires more people to build cabs or create FS tables

[chriz99]

I am not really happy with the nanotech motion/plunger stuff, so I bought this second hand terminator/star trek gun assembly for replacement.

I hope it will look like...

after chromizing.

I think its a great (and working) enhancement for such gun-games like T2, STTNG (moveable canons), LW3 (gun videomodes) or simply for Indy, cactus canyon, guns n roses.....

ive got also some solenoids/knockers (force feedback) and 3 tilt-assemblys for nudging. I am curious how it works. more to come soon.

[oooPLAYER1ooo]

hahaha i did this 8 months ago it is the best thing to do was very important in my lethal weapon 3 testing

i made my own using a psone lightgun already had the microswitch just had to wire up the ipac to it

[billpa]

so the mot-ion kit is not working for you? seems like this is a reoccuring theme. I have yet to hook mine up...did some initial tests. If all I get is a decent plunger, I would be happy.

[billpa]

so the mot-ion kit is not working for you? seems like this is a reoccuring theme. I have yet to hook mine up...did some initial tests. If all I get is a decent plunger, I would be happy.

[chriz99]

good idea with the lightgun, player1! like it!

billpa, I am not satisfied with it and after several days of calibration/fine adjusting I gave up. It is simply to much beta for my taste. the plunger works only with a few tables und calibration is a pain in the ass.

if there were a better software/firmware, it would be perfect (e.g. adjustable deadzones, manual calibration with fix values and the possibility to switch off motion seperatly,...)

[tagi3d]

billpa, I am not satisfied with it and after several days of calibration/fine adjusting I gave up. It is simply to much beta for my taste. the plunger works only with a few tables und calibration is a pain in the ass.

if there were a better software/firmware, it would be perfect (e.g. adjustable deadzones, manual calibration with fix values and the possibility to switch off motion seperatly,...)

Glad I didn't go that route then. I suspect they will improve it over the next year... still want to see some good ideas on a balance based nudge button.

[lettuce]

So would people say you would easily be able to fit a 42" decased LCD in a widebody cab?, what about a 40" in a standard cab, without top modding/cutting to the cabinet like chris had to do for this project?

[tagi3d]

So would people say you would easily be able to fit a 42" decased LCD in a widebody cab?, what about a 40" in a standard cab, without top modding/cutting to the cabinet like chris had to do for this project?

You won't fit a 40, with a 37 you have about 10mm to spare. Check out this post where I show the width of 37 debezeld LCD against a standard lock down bar. I gotta say, now that my cab is built the 37 is a GREAT size. It really is an excellent choice with a standard width cab.

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=50921&postcount=59

[lettuce]

You won't fit a 40, with a 37 you have about 10mm to spare. Check out this post where I show the width of 37 debezeld LCD against a standard lock down bar. I gotta say, now that my cab is built the 37 is a GREAT size. It really is an excellent choice with a standard width cab.

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=50921&postcount=59

Yeah i see what you mean, im guessing then if i wanted to go with a widebody lockdown bar then a 42" playing field would be the best option then as a 40" on a widebody would probably need a fair size bezel, where a 42" would almost be bezel-less

[tagi3d]

Yep I think so... To be safe you really want to measure the 42's visible height (the width of the playfield) and add at least 2 inches to be safe. But judging the fact that a 40 with a bezel on fits a widebody (26inch), and that a 46 can fit on top a widebody, you'd have to think a 42 will fit inside a widebody with bezel off.

It all depends on the model of the TV, and make of the cab. Measure to be sure!