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46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet


chriz99

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I want to know too but at the very least I'd want be using relay switches to activate the 50v circuit? How u power that I'm not sure but surely an electronics store can point u in the right direction?

Hi!... maybe i've got an idea...

years ago i made a little - easy way to control by computer 220V lights or 12v motors. and .. it will work for your problem too...

all u need (if u want to use a real flipper coils) is:

50V power supplier

12v from pc powersupplier

5v from the flipper buttons (left and right)

[2 x 50V flippercoils ; 2x bc547 (transistor) ; 2x 12V 10A RELAY]

(at the end of work.. cover the full solider part of hotmelt)

Just realize this schematic:

i hope u can understand what i'm trying to say.. sorry for my english... i'm italian :P

post-2810-142870571594_thumb.jpg

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thanks for your kind words guys!

good idea orsettolavatore and thanks for posting the schematic.

at the moment I am testing 2 industry relays for force feedback. the noise and the feedback is very close to a real flipper. I will make a resistance test.

I have installed 2 tilt-assemblies for nudging, too

P1030768%20%28Large%29.JPG

here you can see the industry relay.

P1030778%20%28Large%29.JPG

heres a shot of the STTNG gun. I love that gun! gives a new experience to all gun-games.

P1030781%20%28Large%29.JPG

everything is connected to an IPAC now. the Nanotech stuff is terminated :D

P1030776%20%28Large%29.JPG

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This was one thing that i am concerned about when i get around to making my table, the actual feel of the flipper. You wont get the same 'thwack' when you hit the flipper or when the ball hits a bumper etc. What options are open to table builds to get an authentic feel, and can these unit do other effects, for instance 'things' knocking on the addams family machine, can it repoduce these sorts of knocking effects too?

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@ unclet

I think with some coding/programming you can use a real knocker for addams family "things" or for "replay-knocks".

a quality subwoofer soundsystem can reproduce the sound of a bumper better than a real pinball-machine. you simply can feel and hear it with that huge subwoofer.

btw, the sound of my virtual machine is better than the sound of my pinball-pro tuned medieval madness.

@ rawd

this relay works the same way as a real pinball coil. there is also a real coil inside the relay. so you can hold the pinball button and the relay/coil stays in this position.

the relay is simply attached with screws. you need wires for power and 2 wires for the IPAC.

heres a pic of the relay. costs about 20 bucks.

671217_P_NSW0_XX_00521I300225.JPG

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excuse me chriz99 .. isn't that too much for your electronics parts? :afraid:

Negative things: (for my point of view. .OBVIOUSLY I CAN BE IN ERROR! JUST TELL ME!) :embarassed:

1) u need to use at last 110v (usa.. ) or 220v (ita) (that's dangerous for who dont know how to set it up)

2) the power of the coil is real high! and the magnet inside it's installed pretty close to the lcd and the computer..(that doesen't sound good)

3)that power (so near to all your electronic parts) can easly destroy your rams, batteries, and so on.. maybe if u are using uncovered speakers everytime the relay will be turned on.. probably u can hear someting like a buzz from that! (i don't think your soundcard like that!)

Positive things:

1) it works obviously great! nice job! :shakehands:

2) u can use it to give power to somethingelse (when is activated and when is not) (like lights, leds and so on or maybe the classic 60's fillpers Bell :P )

3) easy to use and set up

Nice job!

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ooops, the pic above shows the 110/220v version of the relay (the standard picture from the online-shop). there are several versions available.

I have the 12V-DC version, which can be powered via an solid 12V-DC poweradapter. I use an old 12V-DC 10amps powersupply.

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hey chris, how's those tilt bobs working out for your nudge?

I'm working on a device that will detect a nudge as soon as the object is moved rather than waiting for it to connect after the nudge. I.e. on a broken contact rather than a received connection. Not sure if it's going to work though.

gun looks good! Do you have both that and the plunger? I couldn't see.

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ooops, the pic above shows the 110/220v version of the relay (the standard picture from the online-shop). there are several versions available.

I have the 12V-DC version, which can be powered via pc-powersupply or 12V-DC poweradapter. the powerconsumption of one coil is only ~6 watts.

all negative things that i write before.. now there aren't ! :D no way! NICE JOB :tee:

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nice idea tagi, I am curious how it works.

my 2 tilt-bobs works fine. at the moment only for "nudge-left" and "nudge-right".

I use the STTNG gun for all tables.

hey chris, how's those tilt bobs working out for your nudge?

I'm working on a device that will detect a nudge as soon as the object is moved rather than waiting for it to connect after the nudge. I.e. on a broken contact rather than a received connection. Not sure if it's going to work though.

gun looks good! Do you have both that and the plunger? I couldn't see.

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here is an "easy schematic ;) " to install the industry relay:

diode3.jpg

ps: its better to use an extern 12V-DC poweradapter (I use an old solid 10amps 12V-DC poweradapter) instead the pc-powersupply. its just saver.

ps2: there is electricity. do it only if you know what you do. I will take no responsibility for this.

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here is a first digital camera video of the virtual flipper sound (industry relay + 2.1 subwoofer system) vs. a real medieval madness flipper.

I think the virtualmachine sounds better ;-)

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wTm5ECX10E&hl=de_DE&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wTm5ECX10E&hl=de_DE&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

==>

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