gbeef Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Good point on the strobe. As it kinda blinds and washed everything. At least you have the LED's there incase an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 The code doesn't work with 2 ledwiz, it only works with 32 outputs.Regards! Has anyone tried this code with the 16 input/16 output LEDWIZ? I am planning to use this input board, and wondering if the code will work with it just with fewer devices configured or if I'll have to modify it? thx, Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 got a new ledcontrol.vbs version for testing today. we can mix S/L/W and set a timer value to each output, like S23 5000 (= S23 is ON for 5 seconds). if it works good we do not need a timer relay anymore. new awesome shaker output possible, like 1000ms shaker ON (MM troll hit) or 5000ms shaker ON (MM castle destruction)... woohooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 tried to catch the new 5 flasher effect, sorry for the bad autofocus (too much action for my cam ) at this time every virtual pinball flasher has its own dedicated cree high power rgb led. 33VCh9eqmbg here is the new ledwiz config file for TOM theatre of magic http://www.mediafire.com/?z3fuihn8wc5765b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Right this is what im going to be ordering from wolfs shop: Is there anything i have missed off that i need, do you still need the opto kit to stop the lag, or is it ok now the fliiper solenoids are running through the ledwiz? Is that PSU fine to use aswell? Are those heat sinks really need also, seem rather large? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Very nice Chris... I am out most of the day, but will see what I can do with the .xls file. It will not be perfect as I will need to combine 5 LEDs into 3 LEDs for me... and for yours, it will just copy my 3 LEDs into your 3 LEDs and you will have to tweak it. This also means that from now on, we will need to post the .xls files, not just the config line from the .ini (although I could probably do something with that too, but it would be much more complicated... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicks100 Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 lettuce: 1.no you dont need the opto kit if using ledwiz code. 2. the heat sinks are not as big as they look. 3.you need relay for the shaker. 4. also a timer relay for shake at this time (possiby not for much longer as it looks like new led wiz code will allow you to set times) 5. you need heat conductive glue to stick crees to heatsinks 6. dont forget diodes for siemens contacts (IN7004's) think thats it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 Right this is what im going to be ordering from wolfs shop:Is there anything i have missed off that i need, do you still need the opto kit to stop the lag, or is it ok now the fliiper solenoids are running through the ledwiz? Is that PSU fine to use aswell? Are those heat sinks really need also, seem rather large? if you drive your contactors via ledwiz, you don't need an optocoupler. these large heatsinks are for "countersinked/invisible heatsink" installation on your backbox. if you don't care in seeing heatsinks on your backbox, you can buy smaller ones and place them directly on the backbox. you need also heat conductive glue (arctic silver set) what are your desired voltages? do you use only 12v? if so, you can buy a better powered 150w 12vdc only psu. and don't forget some 1n4007 diodes for shaker and contactor (ask klaus for it) plus a "blue" relay for shaker edit: duplex with hicks100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicks100 Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 no prob hicks100 lettuce, you need also resistors for the cree's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 "if you drive your contactors via ledwiz, you don't need an optocoupler. " what are optocoupler's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Cheers for the feedback, i have load of thermal paste kicking about so im fine for that. The voltages i use are just what ever the normal pc componets need. Are all the stuff ive listed ok to run from just 12volts nothing using any other type of voltage? Does wolf stock the 1n4007 diodes? Also do i just need 1 blue relay for the shaker? So there is not lag between the flipper press and the on screen flipper now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 "if you drive your contactors via ledwiz, you don't need an optocoupler. "what are optocoupler's? a small solid state chip/circuit to prevent the lag when using a contactor without ledwiz. Cheers for the feedback, i have load of thermal paste kicking about so im fine for that. The voltages i use are just what ever the normal pc componets need. Are all the stuff ive listed ok to run from just 12volts nothing using any other type of voltage? Does wolf stock the 1n4007 diodes? Also do i just need 1 blue relay for the shaker? So there is not lag between the flipper press and the on screen flipper now? you need thermal glue (with 2 component glue). check out the arctic silver glue set. if you drive everything with 12v, the psu I have posted is better (150w 12.5A 12VDC meanwell psu). you need 12v resistors for the cree's either... I think klaus has some 22ohm reistors in stock (and some 1n4007, drop him a line). with the new ledwiz code 1 blue standard relay should be ok (to drive timer events with the shaker) there is no lag on your flipper, because your flipperbutton is directly connected to your ipac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 So Here a question when i wire my flippers directly to the ipac they really suck!. The buttons will stutter when i push the button, Its almost like the flipper inst making a solid connection but when i run the flippers directly thru the contactors everything works perfectly. Except i get that delay your talking about. Idea how to fix the problem i have with the flippers to ipac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 1 thing about using the ledwiz with the solenoids is that it will only work with VP and not FP is this correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 So Here a question when i wire my flippers directly to the ipac they really suck!. The buttons will stutter when i push the button, Its almost like the flipper inst making a solid connection but when i run the flippers directly thru the contactors everything works perfectly. Except i get that delay your talking about. Idea how to fix the problem i have with the flippers to ipac? your flipperbutton connection to your ipac should be smooth as silk. check your wiring/soldering (maybe slack joint?). 1 thing about using the ledwiz with the solenoids is that it will only work with VP and not FP is this correct? yes, only with VP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 your flipperbutton connection to your ipac should be smooth as silk. check your wiring/soldering (maybe slack joint?).yes, only with VP. Hmmm, i might use the older method then. As i take it each table would have to be scripted so the flippers fire awell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 yes, each vp table requires a ledwiz.ini line for working contactors (and everything else connected to ledwiz). if you drive your contactors without ledwiz, you should use the optocoupler. with this method your contactors are "always" ready for use during hyperpin browsing and even during pinball attraction mode (without credits). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 yes, each vp table requires a ledwiz.ini line for working contactors (and everything else connected to ledwiz).if you drive your contactors without ledwiz, you should use the optocoupler. with this method your contactors are "always" ready for use during hyperpin browsing and even during pinball attraction mode (without credits). So when cycling through tables with the flipper buttons the solenoids would still fire yeah?? Its never simple is it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvthatapex Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 So when cycling through tables with the flipper buttons the solenoids would still fire yeah?? Its never simple is it lol What if you map your secondary flippers to the shift keys for cycling through the tables? That way you have solenoids firing on the primary keys during gameplay and no solenoids firing when cycling through the games... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicks100 Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 lettuce: you can also get the diodes from maplins. I cant seem to see in the spec for the crees how many watts they draw. The resistors ive ordered take between 2 and 3 watts. any idea if this is gonna be ok chriz? I noticed you were talking about 5 watt resistors in another post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 yes, I would recommend you at least 5 watt resistors, if you drive the cree's @ 5V. 2-3 watt would also possible, but they get pretty hot then. just test it out, but be sure that the cree LED is not always ON (for testing or after an ledwiz error...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I'm at the point of hooking up the LEDWIZ now, so have a few questions. You can see the details of my wiring over at my thread I don't want to clutter this one with that. Essentially my question is can the ledwiz software for outputs work with more than 1 ledwiz connected. Reason I ask is that I was thinking to animate some LEDs that I will inlay in the side of my cabinet and use the 16 input/16 output LEDWIZ for that using LEDWIZ standard software. To drive the solenoids and LEDs etc I think I will order a 32 LEDWIZ for outputs so that I can help create and share configuration files. Only thing I'm concerned about is whether the software would get confused if you tried to run more than 1 LEDWIZ (2 LEDWIZs connected to 2 USBs), does anyone know? thx, Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sglavach Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 granter, As long as the device id of the new ledwiz is different from the device id of your current ledwiz, you should be ok. You can select the device id on the ordering page. Odds are that your current ledwiz is device id 1 if you didn't specify when ordering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Thanks sglavach, I wasn't sure if I needed to order an IPAC and abandon using the 16/16 LEDWIZ but sounds like it should work fine with the 32 LEDWIZ. What do you mean by the ordering page? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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