chriz99 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 there are no outputs left I use all 32 I wired my cree's R-G-B (3 wires) instead R-G-B-W (4 wires) due to my big strobe. maybe I will use the remaining 5 cree extrawhite for some future ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 maybe I will use the remaining 5 cree extrawhite for some future ideas. Here's one... Use them to permanently blind the player when they get a free game... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 thats a good idea, barry! I could wire them parallel to the knocker. preparing the script for multiple timer/color outputs, could be a real time saver... hope it will work well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 it's the same, V stands just for volts... dc = dc OK thanks sorry im a dumb ass. On the upside i have almost everything to get this rolling. i bought a gear motor similar to yours and a fan motor.... hahaha Im going to counter weight it and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 a fan motor sounds interesting. using it with whirlwind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Did u guys clamp down the crees to the heat sink for the thermal glue to cure, or did u just hold it firm for a minute or so?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Did u guys clamp down the crees to the heat sink for the thermal glue to cure, or did u just hold it firm for a minute or so?? clamp down for an hour (but not directly on the led lense) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 My Heatsinks have screws in them to attach the LED to the heatsink. The heatsink is only about 1 inch high, so I am hoping its enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 clamp down for an hour (but not directly on the led lense) Yeah thats what i was wondering about clamping on the led lense, as i dont have any clamps small enough to go around the edge of the cree. Maybe ill just lay a massive book on top of it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 rubber bands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 rubber bands? thats an idea!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicks100 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Looking forward to the new led wiz code with timer function, then i can get me shaker ordered Is there a time frame on that yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 if everything works well, maybe this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 a fan motor sounds interesting. using it with whirlwind? not really. Im basically using a automotive fan 12V (once from an actual car) Then im going to off set the weight by soldering metal to on side. This would cause your rocker effect. If the new code goes up this weekend i should have almost everything install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 not really. Im basically using a automotive fan 12V (once from an actual car) Then im going to off set the weight by soldering metal to on side. This would cause your rocker effect. If the new code goes up this weekend i should have almost everything install. Yikes! Make sure you attach the weight well. I would hat to see it fly off and hit the LCD (or you)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Holy crap! Why do you need them resistors? One thing about using a power supply that supplies only 12 volts DC is you will need bigger resistors. I haven't calculated it but they are probably 27 ohms or so for 12V DC with the crees. With a PC power supply you can get 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. Using 3.3 volts you can use a very small resistor. The LEDWIZ will allow you to run a unique power source to each of it's four banks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 One thing about using a power supply that supplies only 12 volts DC is you will need bigger resistors. I haven't calculated it but they are probably 27 ohms or so for 12V DC with the crees.With a PC power supply you can get 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. Using 3.3 volts you can use a very small resistor. The LEDWIZ will allow you to run a unique power source to each of it's four banks. cree's are capable up to 700mA, if you drive them with around 400mA you can use 20-22ohm resistors (for 12vdc). you are right with the unique power on each voltage bank, but you are more flexible if everything runs with the same voltage (load balancing/mixing across the 4 banks, only 1 external psu...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 One thing you can do to if you have a mutlimeter, is put your multimeter inline with your circuit using the fused side of it. Then if you have a good multimeter you should be able to read current in mA that any device draws. You should do this before you connect it to your LEDWIZ, and you can turn it off on using your power supply. This will tell you what kind of a draw or current the solenoid or LED or other device you are using is pulling. I found that the ford starter solenoids I use for force feedback events draw like 3 AMPs, this is way more than the 500mA the LEDWIZ will support, the relays I haven't measured yet which I use to fire the solenoids, but I wouldn't expect they are not much at all. It's interesting I think to know these current values, as it will give you a sense if you should be concerned about your power supply not having enough juice if multiple events fire at the same time, and also will allow you to be comfortable that you won't ruin your LEDWIZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 yes, it's important to drive max. 500mA per output directly via ledwiz. that was also a reason for my plug and play siemens contactors (need about 350-400mA), because you can connect them directly to ledwiz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 cree's are capable up to 700mA, if you drive them with around 400mA you can use 20-22ohm resistors (for 12vdc).you are right with the unique power on each voltage bank, but you are more flexible if everything runs with the same voltage (load balancing/mixing across the 4 banks, only 1 external psu...) What kind of load balancing are you trying to do? Are you running more than 1 power supply? One thing I think is a good idea, is even if you are only planning to ever use 12 volts, is run a seperate 12 volt power supply to each bank or maybe use 2 12 volt supplies to power 2 banks each. I noticed when I cut the power supply I am using (I think it's off a monitor or something) that there were actually two 12 volt supplies in it, so I ran 1 to 2 of the banks, and the other to the other 2 banks, both were grounded as well of course. I could have bridged all the banks but then would have not had as many Amps on tap. When I connect the relays to drive the solenoids to the iPAC, I make sure that the back pop bumpers are on 1 power supply (seperate banks from other power supply), and the front flippers and sling shots are on another. Essentially I try to make sure that I always have enough current so balance the feedback devices this way. Other thing I think is important, is don't run your computer power supply out to drive anything, keep that just for your computer and don't tap into anything on your computer other than to wire up a reset button. Take a seperate computer or other power supply and use that to drive your LEDWIZ and any relays or LEDs. If you are running powerful devices like solenoids that require relays because they draw too much current for the LEDWIZ, then run these using a seperate power supply from the one you use to drive your ledwiz. I like to have the power for my LEDWIZ, seperate from any of the devices I drive using relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 yes, it's important to drive max. 500mA per output directly via ledwiz. that was also a reason for my plug and play siemens contactors (need about 350-400mA), because you can connect them directly to ledwiz. Yeah my buddy is using the siemens contactors so I definately want to check out the feel, not sure what produces the best feel, there are a few options it seems including real pinball solenoids, car starter solenoids, and contactors. The fact these contactors only draw 350 mA though has a lot of appeal, price was probably the only thing that kept me from using them. Relays and solenoids you can do for about $20 bucks each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 What kind of load balancing are you trying to do? Are you running more than 1 power supply? One thing I think is a good idea, is even if you are only planning to ever use 12 volts, is run a seperate 12 volt power supply to each bank or maybe use 2 12 volt supplies to power 2 banks each. I noticed when I cut the power supply I am using (I think it's off a monitor or something) that there were actually two 12 volt supplies in it, so I ran 1 to 2 of the banks, and the other to the other 2 banks, both were grounded as well of course. I could have bridged all the banks but then would have not had as many Amps on tap. When I connect the relays to drive the solenoids to the iPAC, I make sure that the back pop bumpers are on 1 power supply (seperate banks from other power supply), and the front flippers and sling shots are on another. Essentially I try to make sure that I always have enough current so balance the feedback devices this way. Other thing I think is important, is don't run your computer power supply out to drive anything, keep that just for your computer and don't tap into anything on your computer other than to wire up a reset button. Take a seperate computer or other power supply and use that to drive your LEDWIZ and any relays or LEDs. If you are running powerful devices like solenoids that require relays because they draw too much current for the LEDWIZ, then run these using a seperate power supply from the one you use to drive your ledwiz. I like to have the power for my LEDWIZ, seperate from any of the devices I drive using relays. you should do some load balancing over the 4 ledwiz driver chips for stability and temperature reasons (like mixing contactors, rgb leds over the 4 banks). I use an external/dedicated quality 12VDC 150W 12.5A psu with built in protections (short circuit/over load/over voltage/over temperature) for my ledwiz toys. works perfect here. Yeah my buddy is using the siemens contactors so I definately want to check out the feel, not sure what produces the best feel, there are a few options it seems including real pinball solenoids, car starter solenoids, and contactors. The fact these contactors only draw 350 mA though has a lot of appeal, price was probably the only thing that kept me from using them. Relays and solenoids you can do for about $20 bucks each. I use siemens contactors, because - not too loud - not too quiet - switch fast (firing the contactor) - plug and play (screw terminals, easy mounting and wiring) - directly connectable to ledwiz (without extra relay) my virtual pinball stands between a real medieval madness and scared stiff, so I can compare it directly with real pins. btw, you can search ebay for cheap second hand siemens contactors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 btw, klaus (wolfsoft) did an awesome shaker/intensity hardwaremod for our ledwiz boards. check out the shaker motor at various speed-settings/intensities. wooohoooo! this is so freakin awesome ==> http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11353 thinking of new custom mods for all tables! can't wait for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miracleman Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Hey Chris, you guys have gone too NASA for me! I'm just now wiring stuff up (no relays, motors, robots) and was wondering how you first wired your button lights in the beginning so they just light up. No blinking or anything. Stay on all the time. Did you have a simple power supply just for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 it's not that complicated. go for it - step by step. you can wire your ledbuttons directly to 12vdc pc power supply (if you use 12vdc leds inside your buttons) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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