granter Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Hey Chris, you guys have gone too NASA for me!I'm just now wiring stuff up (no relays, motors, robots) and was wondering how you first wired your button lights in the beginning so they just light up. No blinking or anything. Stay on all the time. Did you have a simple power supply just for them? Buttons I had came with just standard 12V DC bulbs, man do they ever get hot with 12 volts on them. Couple of the buttons I flush mounted and they expanded so badly from the heat that you couldn't press them in anymore until they had cooled down again. I'm going to look at swapping them with LEDs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 ok... so I got the Cree LEDs. When connected to a battery bank (6v), with a 29 ohm resistor, its freaking bright! Especially compared to the china LED. HOWEVER! When connected to the LED-Wiz, 12V, with a 22 ohm resistor, its only slightly brighter than the China ones. Definitely not $20 brighter. Why do you think that is? Is it that the LED-Wiz is only putting out 500mA and the battery is putting out more? Will changing the resistors help? Unless I can get them brighter, I am very disappointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Chris, I could use your expertise. Looking at the LED calculator. If the LED-Wiz limits the LED outputs to 500mA, what is the lowest rated LED I can go with? 15? 18? Same for all colors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 for 12V you can try 17ohm for GBW and 19ohm for R, use resistors with a good tolerance (maybe you'll find some 1% resistors). you can double check the mA with a multimeter, when the cree is lit... so you can vary the resistors. ...and put some heatsinks on your 4 ledwiz driverchips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks. I will take a look. Need to find where to get the heatsinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Chris are you running diodes other than the siemens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 yes, I use diodes also for shaker, gear and knocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Ah. Ok do you have diagram for that Im getting emf on my setup. And if were to put them on my LEDs. And any how I could. What diodes did you end up using them same as seimens ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gstav Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 You don´t have to use them for the LEDs. Ony resitor is required for the LEDS. 1n4007 diodes is the ones for the relays and the motors/knocker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I having problems with my LED's,so i would like to put them on, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 If the issues are with the LEDs, that should not be EMF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockerNJ Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I having problems with my LED's,so i would like to put them on, I doubt that your solenoids are generating any significant ElectroMagnetic Field(EMF), and even if it were, it wouldn't be enough to cause problems with your LEDs. Furthermore, an LED is in fact a diode, thus I dont understand what you intend to accomplish by adding a diode to your LED circuit. What problems are you having with your LEDs, and is it possible for you to post a schematic of how you've wired things? Maybe we can help troubleshoot your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I'm wip something up. i have no problems with my soleniods its the LED's that are giving me issues. Im also running an IPAC 4 not a 2.. . Edit: i just did a test with just LED's only, yep theirs something weird going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Ok did some more testing it seems 1pac4 + LEDWIZ = buggy as hell! the first test i ran was. LED's only with ipac = still got errors LED's only without ipac = no errors LED's + solenoids= no errors the conclusion, something wrong with ipac4. nest step is to try and use a usb card for ports for the ipac. If that doesnt work ill have to order an ipac2 Edit: USB PCI card didnt work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpcurreri Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I had issues in the past with the solenoids causing triggering of the Ipac. I corrected it by moving the ipac far away from the other components and putting the ipac in a metal case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 this guys is having the exact same problem im having. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108517.0 Execpt i dont have a bunch of compnets hooked up to my USB, and i have no clue what the hell he's talking about ELwire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockerNJ Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 this guys is having the exact same problem im having.http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108517.0 Expect i dont have a bunch of compnets hooked up to my USB, and i have no clue what the hell he's talking about ELwire. EL wire is ElectroLuminescent wire for lighting. Generally powered by lower voltage/current AC, but it's still basically unshielded AC and very "noisy". But from reading a bunch of the guys posts, it seems like a majority of his issues stemmed from daisy chaining 3 or 4 USB hubs along one single PC USB port. Thats quite a lot to string on one 5VDC line, not to mention the current drop across the distance of all the USB cabling that probably required. You say you dont have a bunch of USB devices on your cab though I still suspect you may be having an undervoltage or undercurrent issue. Edit: Just for fun, I decided to click the link to that guys MAME cab. Wow! That is some serious dedication! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 there is always something to do with your cabinet, isn't it? got my dual h-bridge board from wolfsoft for the shaker motor (to drive the shaker with various intensities) I still have to solder the red wire to the mini ledwiz driver chip added 5 extra resistors for my unused white rgbW leds for blinder effect (wired parallel to the replay knocker) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shilmover Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Yup. The never ending project . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettuce Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 You should use N4007 for the solenoids shouldnt you, as wolfsoft sent me N4005?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 4005 are also ok, no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 holy cow, the red wire is soldered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I should stop my alcohol right away if I want to be able to solder that wire next year lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeef Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 holly!. what are the wires for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermixer Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Is the bridge board for sale yet ? Ordererd from Wolfsoft the shakermotor ,maybee he can send the board with this order. Unfortunately Klaus doesn't respond mails... probably too bussy inventing new stuff for all cabinetfreeks :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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