chriz99 Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 3RT1017-1VB41 seems a good choice. you can power this contactor with a DC24V power supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 thank you chriz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 hello for contactors 24v, it must use relays. also knocker 24v? for everything that plugs into the ledwiz must put diodes? fuse 500ma for everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavis Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 hellofor contactors 24v, it must use relays. also knocker 24v? for everything that plugs into the ledwiz must put diodes? fuse 500ma for everything? You don't need a relay for the contactors. The knocker will need a 12v relay (relaying 24v) unless you use Zebulon's Ledwiz Booster Boards (not sure they are still available). You need diodes on any coil based device (contactors and relay, not sure about the gear motor). Fuses should be 500ma, but if you have the booster board, you don't need a fuse bank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 hi I found on ebay: Quantity: 1 pcs Power: 5W ~ 10W Emitted Color: RGB + White Wavelength: Red - 620-630nm, Green - 520-535nm, Blue: 450-465nm Intensity Luminous (Iv): 370LM ~ 430LM DC Forward Voltage (VF): ~ 4.0 Vdc 3.4Vdc DC Forward Current: 350mA ~ 700mA DC Forward Current (IF): 750mA Typ Diameter: 20mm Viewing Angle: 110 Degree I must take strength by how much? 12v power. 11 ohm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Even with the boards you still need resistors for the leds and any motor should have a diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 yes of course. but the reistors (ohm), I have to take How often (ohm) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Use this site to calculate your resistor size required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I'm confused. I do not know what to choose. for example red. I have to choose forward voltage 350ma (2.1 or 2.5V) or 700ma 2.3v? here the datasheet http://www.cree.com/led-components-and-modules/products/xlamp/arrays-directional/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampMCE.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 If you want them to run at full brightness, 700ma - Red 2.3 volts, Green 3.7 V, and Blue 3.5V. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulbas Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 700ma it will be good for ledwiz? I think it is limited to 500ma thank you for your indulgence for my newbie questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 No problems with helping out. If you are using the booster board from Zebulon, you can go to 700 mA but if your using a LEDwiz directly to your LED's, I would go no more than 350 mA. Highly recommend using a booster board for your LED's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodzowski Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 I've been following this build since it started and have been one of the many quiet hoverers round here for many years. I REALLY enjoy your work Chris and the help you've provided me to understand many things. I've still got a lot to figure out. My biggest hurdle has been with the availability if certain products and how they relate here in the US. Regardless..... on to my question. I FINally have my brand spanking new 32 and 46 in the boxes today and was going to start chopping wood. The one dimension I haven't come across or read how you figured was from the front of the pinball table to where it meets the bottom of the playfield. This would be the section where the lockdown bar goes across. How did you figure how far back to make your cut in the side for the playfield to lay? I have the mechanism already if that's of any interest. I was going to wait until I had final dimensions to order my custom bar. Can you help with that measurement? Thank you! Edit: I'm dumb. I see now after looking at the pictures from way back when (instead of my dimensions) that you started the cut from the TOP at the length of the uncovered lcd towards the bottom. Duh. Not sure why I didn't see that before. Sorry for my silly question. Again, thank you for your wealth of knowledge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalMocking Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Just wanted to say that this was the first thread Dazz ever linked me here and over the last 3 years I've been collecting what I need to build my own cabinet. I'll be starting right after xmas as the final parts of my build are coming as presents from my wife and kids, but I wanted to thank you for the amazing builds, posts and inspiration. So, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busol Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Is there any reason to use LedWiz instead of Pac-Drive and similar IPac insead of GP-Wiz ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aurich Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Is there any reason to use LedWiz instead of Pac-Drive and similarIPac insead of GP-Wiz ? There's little to no support for the Pac-Drive for cabinet use. GP-Wiz shows up as a gamepad, not a keyboard like the I-PAC. That can cause some issues with some setups, up to you to figure out if that's going to be an issue for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busol Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Another newbie question. I ve got iPac2*. And I will use it for buttons of course. But on the iPac board I've found some 9pin stuff to connect some leds I suppose. Is there a possibility to use it to connect RGB buttons instead of all that Ledwizz stuff ? Regards * Ultimarc has sent me iPac in about 18 hours (from UK to my house in Poland) on 21st on December so just in the Xmas heat. I didn't suppose that it is possibile . Cool and best wishes for guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz2012 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Another newbie question.I ve got iPac2*. And I will use it for buttons of course. But on the iPac board I've found some 9pin stuff to connect some leds I suppose. Is there a possibility to use it to connect RGB buttons instead of all that Ledwizz stuff ? Regards * Ultimarc has sent me iPac in about 18 hours (from UK to my house in Poland) on 21st on December so just in the Xmas heat. I didn't suppose that it is possibile . Cool and best wishes for guys Here is what the 9 Pin connector does: What about LEDs? To complete your control panel why not mount 3 LEDs? A pre-assembled harness is available with LEDs in black conical bezels similar to those used on early Atari games. The LEDs emulate the Caps/Num/Scroll lock keyboard LEDs. What these LEDs actually do depends on the game. In MAME some games flash the LEDs to indicate coin credits. Some games use the LEDs for indicating "power-up" or rapid fire status etc. So to answer your question regarding using this instead of the Ledwiz the answer is no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre99 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It's an oldie but goodie thread! Chriz, I don't know if you check in on this thread any longer but I am about to button up my build which, construction-wise, is very similar to this build. When you assembled your bezel-less screen on the top and added the siderails, did you use anything to insulate the metal siderails form the now exposed electronics of the TV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hey Spektre, I used some electrical tape inside the siderails to insulate them a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicco84 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 hi chriz, i'm looking for a good plounger and i think i have to take the sttng gun... where can i find? google hasn't been my friend during searching. you said it's press sensitive: how can i control the pressing? i have only to connect to ipac? thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
launch_14 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashdogy Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 none of the links on frist page work ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djurre Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 none of the links on frist page work ? Seems like it. The site had a make over this year, unfortunately the page url's got changed with that. But hey, the upside is, that this thread is not even 1500 posts. No biggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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