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46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet


chriz99

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Posted
Hey Chris, you guys have gone too NASA for me!

I'm just now wiring stuff up (no relays, motors, robots) and was wondering how you first wired your button lights in the beginning so they just light up. No blinking or anything. Stay on all the time. Did you have a simple power supply just for them?

Buttons I had came with just standard 12V DC bulbs, man do they ever get hot with 12 volts on them. Couple of the buttons I flush mounted and they expanded so badly from the heat that you couldn't press them in anymore until they had cooled down again.

I'm going to look at swapping them with LEDs.

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Posted

ok... so I got the Cree LEDs.

When connected to a battery bank (6v), with a 29 ohm resistor, its freaking bright! Especially compared to the china LED.

HOWEVER! When connected to the LED-Wiz, 12V, with a 22 ohm resistor, its only slightly brighter than the China ones. Definitely not $20 brighter.

Why do you think that is? Is it that the LED-Wiz is only putting out 500mA and the battery is putting out more? Will changing the resistors help?

Unless I can get them brighter, I am very disappointed. :(

Posted

Chris,

I could use your expertise. Looking at the LED calculator. If the LED-Wiz limits the LED outputs to 500mA, what is the lowest rated LED I can go with? 15? 18? Same for all colors?

Posted

for 12V you can try 17ohm for GBW and 19ohm for R, use resistors with a good tolerance (maybe you'll find some 1% resistors).

you can double check the mA with a multimeter, when the cree is lit... so you can vary the resistors.

...and put some heatsinks on your 4 ledwiz driverchips.

cheers

chris

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* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted

You don´t have to use them for the LEDs. Ony resitor is required for the LEDS.

1n4007 diodes is the ones for the relays and the motors/knocker! :D

Posted
I having problems with my LED's,so i would like to put them on, :(

I doubt that your solenoids are generating any significant ElectroMagnetic Field(EMF), and even if it were, it wouldn't be enough to cause problems with your LEDs.

Furthermore, an LED is in fact a diode, thus I dont understand what you intend to accomplish by adding a diode to your LED circuit.

What problems are you having with your LEDs, and is it possible for you to post a schematic of how you've wired things? Maybe we can help troubleshoot your problems.

Posted

I'm wip something up. i have no problems with my soleniods its the LED's that are giving me issues. Im also running an IPAC 4 not a 2.. :(.

Edit: i just did a test with just LED's only, yep theirs something weird going on.

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My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab

My Racing Cab OutRun Racing

Posted

Ok did some more testing it seems 1pac4 + LEDWIZ = buggy as hell!

the first test i ran was.

LED's only with ipac = still got errors

LED's only without ipac = no errors

LED's + solenoids= no errors

the conclusion, something wrong with ipac4. nest step is to try and use a usb card for ports for the ipac. If that doesnt work ill have to order an ipac2

Edit: USB PCI card didnt work :(

sig.jpg

My Cabs

My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab

My Racing Cab OutRun Racing

Posted

I had issues in the past with the solenoids causing triggering of the Ipac. I corrected it by moving the ipac far away from the other components and putting the ipac in a metal case.

Posted
this guys is having the exact same problem im having.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108517.0

Expect i dont have a bunch of compnets hooked up to my USB, and i have no clue what the hell he's talking about ELwire. :(

EL wire is ElectroLuminescent wire for lighting. Generally powered by lower voltage/current AC, but it's still basically unshielded AC and very "noisy". But from reading a bunch of the guys posts, it seems like a majority of his issues stemmed from daisy chaining 3 or 4 USB hubs along one single PC USB port. Thats quite a lot to string on one 5VDC line, not to mention the current drop across the distance of all the USB cabling that probably required.

You say you dont have a bunch of USB devices on your cab though I still suspect you may be having an undervoltage or undercurrent issue.

Edit: Just for fun, I decided to click the link to that guys MAME cab. Wow! That is some serious dedication!

Posted

there is always something to do with your cabinet, isn't it? :D

got my dual h-bridge board from wolfsoft for the shaker motor (to drive the shaker with various intensities)

DSC00756%20%28Large%29.JPG

I still have to solder the red wire to the mini ledwiz driver chip :ahhhhh::vroam:

added 5 extra resistors for my unused white rgbW leds for blinder effect (wired parallel to the replay knocker)

DSC00755%20%28Large%29.JPG

cheers

chris

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted

Is the bridge board for sale yet ? Ordererd from Wolfsoft the shakermotor ,maybee he can send the board with this order. Unfortunately Klaus doesn't respond mails... probably too bussy inventing new stuff for all cabinetfreeks :-)

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