Jump to content
chriz99

Big Bang Pin - 46/30/15.6 LED Widebody (custom artwork, bezel less, deep playfield)

Recommended Posts

yes, the mirror blades are awesome on real pinball machines.

I think on VP cabinets "smoked" reflective effect looks a bit better, but we should try all available possibilities to get the best effect :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, the mirror blades are awesome on real pinball machines.

I think on VP cabinets "smoked" reflective effect looks a bit better, but we should try all available possibilities to get the best effect :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what about some artwork on the backboard to match your sideart, like a real pin would have, yes it would be cab specific but would also give you more of that 3d feel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the mirror effect may be cool.

Tried some stern graphics on my backboard and found that it seemed to flatten the 3d illusion of the table but a 3d graphic like this may be excellant..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twilight-Zone-Pinball-Stunning-3-Piece-Cab-Art-Decal-Set-NEW-/280829807550?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item4162c2cbbe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the twilight zone custom sideboard decals are nice. I also like cab specific sideboard idea, but I don't know if it feels "ok" for every table.

here is a cool example for an AFM

afm-1.jpg

rockyrocket seems also be right that a static image flattens the 3D illusion on VP cabs.

so maybe better go the reflective/mirror way - so it's more univeral and give a bit of 3D.... hmmmm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After helping my friend pick up his IM with the mirror blades over the weekend I decided to try a cheap door mirror just on the sides.

I have not cut glass before so hopefully it will go well. The door mirror, glass cutter and mounting tape are about $12 total. If I don’t like it I am no out much money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was playing TOM the other night and thought it was so cool seeing the ball at the top rollovers in a reflection. Immediately I thought of the mirror blades, but didn't want to spend so much for a maybe... I look forward to see your cabinet with the mirrored sides. I think it will add no only flasher reflection, but also increase the depth realism. Hope so!

After helping my friend pick up his IM with the mirror blades over the weekend I decided to try a cheap door mirror just on the sides.

I have not cut glass before so hopefully it will go well. The door mirror, glass cutter and mounting tape are about $12 total. If I don’t like it I am no out much money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
After helping my friend pick up his IM with the mirror blades over the weekend I decided to try a cheap door mirror just on the sides.

I have not cut glass before so hopefully it will go well. The door mirror, glass cutter and mounting tape are about $12 total. If I don’t like it I am no out much money.

you can also get mirrored plexi/acrylic which cuts easy, so maybe look into that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used the mirrored acrylic in a lot of car audio projects and its really easy to work with compared to an actual mirror. Use a couple scrap pieces if u can get any so you can get a feel for cutting it.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thats a nice idea! acrylic mirror! :beer:

is there also a "dark" acrylic mirror available... like smoked glas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thats a nice idea! acrylic mirror! :beer:

is there also a "dark" acrylic mirror available... like smoked glas?

yup, i have seen smoked mirror also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
that's the way I wired it:

2012-02-15%252015h28_10.jpg

hi i can see green,violett,blue go to the led stripe thats ok

the red one to the led stripe thats ok

four connetctions thats finished

the input green,violett,blue and red and gray is ok

i go from led wiz rgw to the flipperbuttons rgb led thats came from wolfsoft

and from the same connector from the ledwiz to the 4 Kanal 12V Relais Relay Modul for PIC ARM AVR Arduino

or go i from the ledwiz to the 4 Kanal 12V Relais Relay Modul for PIC ARM AVR Arduino and from there to the flipper button rgb led's and stripes ???

i can see a white cable 3 times for what is this????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...

i go from led wiz rgw to the flipperbuttons rgb led thats came from wolfsoft

and from the same connector from the ledwiz to the 4 Kanal 12V Relais Relay Modul for PIC ARM AVR Arduino...

this way is correct

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Installed a microswitch on the coindoor reject-button. Glued it sideways, so you still can use the reject and insert coin function.

coin2%2520%2528Gro%25C3%259F%2529.jpg

coin1%2520%2528Gro%25C3%259F%2529.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The artwork on this one still amazes me. One day I might actually come up with a name and artwork for mine lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got some opto relays for a nice price... my cab is now 100% opto controlled :D Ledwiz stays cool and my flashers are now 700ma per output:

DSC04631%2520%2528Gro%25C3%259F%2529.JPG

switched also to 5v, so I need just 3watt resistors for the flashers.

but it was a real PITA to solder that thing :stupid::stoned:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
you must be the real soldering monster then !! :dancing2:

I learned from the solder demon :D:P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks to the optos I drive my backbox and playfield flashers with 350mA each. before was 300mA backbox and 100mA playfield. now they are really flashing :D

if you use original cree rgb led you could drive them with 700ma - for the ultimative FLASH :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By incessant
      Hi guys! I recently finished my newest project and thought I would share it. If I can figure out how to upload photos here  I will do that too.
       

       
      As with most MAME projects, the majority of the time is in the software. We had a difficult time getting both guns to work in MAME, and after pulling our hair out for a couple of days we found a thread mentioning that dual light gun support is broken in the newest version. We got an older version and BOOM. 
      There is still some software work a head. I have not tried to tackle dual light guns in M2. I may not bother. 
       
      I used the Ultimarc AimTrak guns. They had the best reviews in my research. They function very well. While it is impossible to get them optimized perfectly for every game, after some long hours in the individual game calibrations, I have the happiest medium I think I will find. Some games work much better (and more accurately) than others. 
      For example the hunting games are dead center at the middle of the screen, but end up about 2" off at the sides. I don't know if there is anyway to correct for that. Also some games play better at different distances. Overall, I am very please with it. There are probably a handful of games that play terrific, and the rest have their issues. 
       
      We used 2 nanoLED USB controllers and LEDBlinky to automate.
       
      The holsters are 3D printed.
       
      The original speakers are being used along with a super cheap 5W amp and a 100W yamaha subwoofer. 
       
      We used a Windows 7 PC. I hate the load times, but sadly the aimtraks only work with windows.
       



       
      Nano Led

       

       
      AimTraks

       
      Maquee

       
      RGB LED Lights JUST fit in the buttons

       

       
      CP Art

       
      Custom TV & Marquee Stand

       
      Painted Marquee

       
       
      Maquee and Tv Mounted

       
      CP Attached

       
      Finished

       
       
      Sorry Guys! I Don't know why some of the photos are rotated :/

    • By newoski
      RocketBlinky is a 3rd-party tool that can, in a matter of minutes, auto-generate an LEDBlinkyControls.xml supporting over 160 HyperSpin systems. Translation: It takes 99% of the work out of setting up LEDBlinky.
       
      Demo Video:
    • By 123fakestreet
      On the left, the original 1982 Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball. To the right, the replica. Thank you to all cabinet builders for the inspiration, especially chriz99 and mameman!



      Playfield Cabinet

      The front and back corners are cut at 45 degrees, with miter splines for strength. I also used wood bracing on the inside corners under the leg brackets. The leg bracket holes were drilled at 25/64" which gave a little wiggle room to tighten fully. One problem I ran into: I cut the slots for the side rail plastic channels at 1/16" with a router and Harbor Freight slot cutter set, but after painting they weren't wide enough to hammer the rails down into, so I had to redo that. Slots for the TV were routed to 1/2" leaving only 1/4" thickness. I was worried about this in back with the weight of the backboxes so I made 2 bracing pieces to reinforce. The TV ended up being slim enough to install (fully cased) from the top, if I had realized that earlier I would not have routed the slots all the way back. Because there is a Samsung logo tab sticking out on the bottom of the TV, it sits slightly off-center to the right in the cabinet despite the routing, it is only about 1/8" off though. The remote works fine (needed for switching to 3D) as the sensor is on the bottom right of the TV so ends up near the buttons on the left side. 3D does work, check out the thread by toxie for more info. Because the Samsung UN46ES7100 is active shutter, you need two pairs of glasses turned sideways for it to work and not see black bars. This does make it hard to see the backglass and DMD, and the resolution is cut in half to achieve 3D. I don't turn on the 3D very often but it's nice to have, I did angle the TV downward anyway so it gives some illusion of depth though 2D.

      3/4" Birch Plywood
      Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
      46" Samsung UN46ES7100
      Widebody Lockdown bar
      Williams/Bally Lockdown Bar Lever Guide Assembly
      BLACK KNIGHT (Williams) Side rails pair
      Spiral nail .15" dia. x 3/4"
      Screw 6-32 x 5/8" hex
      4X Pin Cushion Cabinet Protectors
      4X Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
      4X Heavy Duty Leg Leveler With Nut
      4X Leg Leveler Rubber Castors
      4X Bally Gray Legs
      2X Williams/Bally WPC/WPC95 Playfield Glass Side Rail Plastic Channel
      Williams/Bally WIDEBODY Playfield Glass Rear Plastic Channel
      Grill - speaker 7" x 7"
      Vent grill - metal 2-1/2" x 19" (cut to size)
      3/16" Smoked Plexiglass
      1-1/8" Double-Bitted Lock
      Lock Plate
      Piano Hinge


      Upper Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen)

      Also routed to 1/2" to recess the decased screen as much as possible. Routing on all sides presented a problem, how to get the TV in there? I ended up leaving the right side unglued so it is removable, the hole in the bottom is large enough to get a screwdriver in there and tighten with pocket screws. The top trim piece is not glued in as it would cover the screw holes holding things together.

      3/4" Birch Plywood
      1/4" MDF (Backglass retainers)
      Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
      (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel)
      30" NEC LCD3000 (originally Dell W3000 but it would not turn on reliably, a common issue I have read online)
      Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3
      Bally Stainless Lift Trim
      3/16" Smoked Plexiglass


      Lower Backbox (A bit taller and wider to fit screen)

      For now, I am using the HannsG instead of a real DMD. (I wanted to use custom color settings and not have the intense reflection on the playfield glass) It is routed about 1/2" and wedged in there tightly. I had to make the box taller, which I justified by having the combined height of the backboxes be the same as a Williams widebody. Theare are 2 pieces of plexiglass with a paper bezel inbetween.

      3/4" Birch Plywood
      1/2" MDF (Backglass retainers)
      Kreg 1-1/4" Course Pocket Screws (every 6 inches, 2 inches from edges, with wood glue)
      (all plastic/metal trim was cut to size with a Dremel Fiberglass Cut-Off Wheel)
      15.6" HannsG HK162
      Trim backglass 3/16" side plastic set-3
      Bally Stainless Lift Trim
      1/8" Smoked Plexiglass, 1/16" Smoked Plexiglass


      Stencils

      Ideally a spray gun is the way to go with stencils, but I like the control of using a foam roller, although it requires a lot of touch up. 2 coats of latex Kilz2 primer, and then latex Glidden Satin Interior, 3 coats blue (Rhapsody), 5 coats yellow (Sunny Side Up), 5 coats pink (Passion Flower) The black was done with 2 coats Zinnser BIN primer (spray can) and 2-3 coats Rustoleum Satin Black (spray can). One thing I re-learned about spray paint, if you're going to do more than one coat, don't space them out too long, I did a second coat of black the next day and it puckered, had to redo it. Another coat should be applied within an hour.


      Bally Coin door/Cash box

      I took the coin door completely apart and used a wet sanding sponge (up and down for uniform grain) to buff out scratches, it worked great, used the same on the trim. For the coin insert panel/coin mechs and chutes I used steel wool. I wired the lights in series to the PC, using an extra molex to SATA adaptor to splice the wires. #161 bulbs are the correct voltage. I put the shooter rod/knob in the drill and spun it in steel wool, shined it all up, did the same for the coin return button. You can use steel wool on the cash box, but it takes off the zinc coating, leaving it clean and shiny but different than the original.

      Bally Coin Door & Trim
      Bally Cash Box
      Bally Sticker
      3X Bally price plates
      Carriage bolt set
      7/8" Coin Door Lock - Single Bitted
      #161 Eiki Bulbs


      Sound

      The integrated sound on this motherboard is from Realtek, nothing special but you can route seperate audio streams to front and back outputs, which is now a feature in visual Pinball. (Doesn't work in Future Pinball, sound only comes from the primary backbox speakers) I have the Logitech Z506 5.1 speakers on the back outputs, and the Logitech S220 2.1 speakers on the front headphone jack. So backbox rom sound is separated from cabinet mechanical sounds. I am missing authentic force feedback, but I can control the volume of the whole cabinet. I copied the small bottom vent holes in the original cabinet, and the speakers are placed nearby. In the lower backbox, the speakers are facing toward the bottom hole that overhangs the playfield. I like that the speakers aren't right in my face, and without a speaker panel all 3 screens are blank when turned off.

      Logitech Z506
      Logitech S220


      PC

      The playfield cabinet is not as tall as a Williams widebody, so I could not fit a shelf for the PC above where the legs attach. Because of this I just kept the PC in its case, which could technically be pulled out the back if needed, a tight sqeeze though.

      Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
      Intel DP55KG Motherboard
      Intel Core i7-860 2.80GHz
      Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333
      Samsung SSD 830 Series 128GB
      Antec Sonata Designer 500 Case
      2X Galaxy GeForce GTS 250 1GB
      2X Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan
      750W Antec Earthwatts Power Supply
      Smart Strip LCG3 Surge Protector
      Logitech mk260 wireless Keyboard & Mouse
      (these work OK but sometimes lag)


      Buttons

      Coin return button=cabinet on
      The PC momentary switch is in the first coin mech, I just cut off the square top of the switch so it works. Not all coin mechs fit this method, I had to use a metal one from a Ms. Pac-Man. The PC is plugged into the Control Outlet on the Smart Strip and automatically switches everything else on.
      Coin door start button=Start (also I-PAC2 shift button)
      L Flipper Front (shifted=L Nudge)
      R Flipper Front (shifted=R Nudge)
      L Flipper Back=secondary L flipper/magna save/buy-in (shifted=Insert Coin)
      R Flipper Back=secondary R flipper/magna save (shifted=Exit)
      I didn't put in any analog nudging, maybe if I improve at pinball I will, because the above shift settings are not very functional.
      Shooter (shifted=Fwd Nudge, Genre in Hyperpin)
      The shooter hits a microswitch wired backwards as NC (Normally Closed)
      I used Speedbor bits for the button holes, 5/8 & 1-1/8.

      I-PAC2
      4X NOS 1-1/8 short Leaf Switch Buttons
      4X PAL nut 5/8"
      4X VPCLeaf Switch (works well with I-PAC2 low current)
      Switch - miniature drop bar target
      Bally Shooter


      Ventilation

      I replicated the original backbox vents, which I wouldn't recommend as most projects have large strong fans. I routed out a long air intake under the cab for the PC, and there's also the speaker hole, which was done with a router using a makeshift jig. I ran a 92mm case fan up into the bottom hole of the lower backbox, and another for the upper backbox, so it has upward airflow. I didn't notice excessive heat in the lower cabinet, the upper backbox (NEC LCD3000) gets hotter though. I covered the routed area in the upper backbox with thermal aluminum tape. I was still a bit concerned about airflow so in the end left the back slightly unhinged and have a small desk fan route air out the back.
×
×
  • Create New...