chriz99 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Based on your setup and current number of toys how any driver boards and multiplex pcbs are you thinking of adding? not much for my current project (which is nearly finished)... more for some future projects. Chriz,How much space roughly is in between your backbox lcd and the glass? Thanks, -Ron about 2-3 cm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 here is an "easy diagram" for T6 strobe wiring, maybe we can use it for pinball101 Hi Chris I know you've covered this many times before, but, just one more time for the dummy... I just wanted to understand your setup a little more. From what I understand for your strobe LEDs your running: 4 cree xm-l 1000lumen coldwhite top of backbox 2 cree xm-l 1000lumen coldwhite underside of cabinet 2 mini car led strobe You have grouped the crees into 3s(series) and have each group wired in parallel together with the car leds. Are you running a constant power relay for each cree group (2)? Are you using a single opto relay for the strobe setup? Theo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 I use 2 cree groups and 2 constant current boards (each group has 3 cree) - so I can drive both groups via 12vdc -plus- the 12vdc mini car led strobes (simply wired parallel on the single opto relay). you can also use 1 group (and just 1 constant power board) for all 6 cree's via 24vdc, but then you are near maximum load for the constant current board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohusky Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks Chris I forgot to ask about the caps for the strobe crees on top. They look smaller than the standard ones. Which ones have you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 used mini mars domes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibbynator Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Will try one of the 5000 series within the next weeks... Bitbuster, already have some feedback on sizes and test?? Got me some prices in discount but they aren't valid really long... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 now I have projects for the next 20 years - thanks to erwin aka the solder machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xagesz Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 HOLY C*** Chris. I agree your set. Spare one to me? hah jk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Bulk orders now huh ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigagamesguy Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 For what are the Pcb do you build more Pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 you can use it for nearly everything. virtual pinball, mame videogame cabinets, LED toppers, arcade stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 had some siemens contactors as spare parts here --> double action for my flippers did some tests before via ledwiz software... simply configured flipper and slingshot on some tables together - and I loved it. the extra "punch" on the flipperbuttons is awesome. Now it's hardware dedicated with no more config pain. I will drive both contactor via opto-relays, so the ledwiz stays cool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 so you have gone back to running the flippers off the button like we first did? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 No, I simply installed a second contactor for each flipperside, parallel to the first one... for more punch on the buttons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelmagic Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 No, I simply installed a second contactor for each flipperside, parallel to the first one... for more punch on the buttons. Parallel or dit you use the switching function of the first contactor ? Could give a nice after-effect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 tried the switching function before, but the delay is a bit annoying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewool Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Hello Chris, am just wiring up my cabinet strobe array using your method, and I was hoping you could check out my wiring as there is something slighly different on my opto-coupler... Basically, the A1 and A2 terminals are the other way round. So I just wanted to check that A1+ is for the supply (which also goes to 13+), and A2- connects to the LEDWiz output? Cheers for your help mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 if you drive your strobe and ledwiz with 12vdc, the wiring is ok: A1+ to 12vdc+ A2- to Ledwiz output 13+ to 12vdc+ 14 to strobe + and strobe - (ground) directly to 12vdc- so the opto-relay is just an on/off switch for the + positive wire to your strobe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizard Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 @thewool: this time I used cheaper "prolight RGB LEDs on star" for the flashers. No need for ultrabright crees due to the extra playfield flasherbar. I regulated the 150/350mA simply via resistors. Hi Chris Awsome looking build top quality. I am going to go the backbox and playfield flashers looks great in the vids. When you say you regulated the leds with 150/350ma resistors are they wired in parallel and as a total at less than 500ma so that it stays below the ledwiz limit. Are they wired directly to the ledwiz or through an optocoupler circuit as was sugested to me in another thread so as not to burn the ledwiz. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Hi Chris Awsome looking build top quality. I am going to go the backbox and playfield flashers looks great in the vids. When you say you regulated the leds with 150/350ma resistors are they wired in parallel and as a total at less than 500ma so that it stays below the ledwiz limit. Are they wired directly to the ledwiz or through an optocoupler circuit as was sugested to me in another thread so as not to burn the ledwiz.Thanks with this RGB-LED combo the LEDwiz runs way over the specification. I used 27ohm and 68ohm 10watt 10% resistors, which gives about 400mA on each LEDwiz output. Without a big heatsink on the LEDwiz driverchips and a placement directly in the "wind circulation" - I think my LEDwiz would burn. IMO better use opto relays/high current driverboards or a really big heatsink and a good fan circulation around the LEDwiz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewool Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks for the confirmation there Chris!! :0) Lizard, I have the CREEs already so will give them a go. They will be partially submerged under the glass so hope they won't be too bright - good job I'm not epileptic! :0/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizard Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks for the quick reply i might look at what the driver board is and if it is something i can make up to add to the challenge of building the cabinet. Something new means i will learn more so its all good fun. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 thinking of adding some "more reflective" material on the inner playfield areas, to get more flasher and LCD reflections on the sides and the playfield backboard. I think this effect makes the 2D VP playfield look more "pseudo 3D", especially due to LCD playfield refelections. my favorites are so far the "black glossy carbon foil" and the "high gloss black foil". the "dark mirrorpolished metal sheet" is also very nice, but also very expensive what do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 That might cool Like these http://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html here is it installed I helped a guy pick up a very nice Iron Man pinball machine over the weekend. It had these mirror blades on it we both have a VP and were talking about how it would look. I was wondering if you could just get a door mirror and cut it for the sides. Maybe too much reflection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Could look awesome. I vote for the high gloss black. "Make it so number one." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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